GEORGIA BEARDED DRAGONS™ "Dragon Care Manual"

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GEORGIA BEARDED DRAGONS™ "Dragon Care Manual"

This information is being provided as a guide for bearded dragon owners and was developed by us through our years of experience in raising and breeding bearded dragons.

HAVE A GOOD RESOURCE BOOK ON HAND

There are many resource books available at your local pet store or bookstore related to Bearded Dragons. Our top choice and favorite is for both beginners and more advanced bearded dragon owners titled “The Bearded Dragon Manual” by Philippe de Vosjoli, Robert Mailloux, et al. It is available in an inexpensive paperback form. This book is from the experts at Advanced Vivarium Systems, Inc., Copyright © 2001 and hasd recently come out in a new edition. We highly recommend everyone who purchases a bearded dragon, also own a good Bearded Dragon resource manual. A good source of reference material is necessary in the event of a concern or incident that may occur after regular veterinary hours. No matter how well you may know bearded dragons we have found “The Bearded Dragon Manual” can be a big help in many different situations when reference material is needed and you are unable to get in touch with your vet or a breeder.

HOUSING AND ENCLOSURE SIZE (See our website for cage setup information and photos)

The larger the better when it comes to enclosures sizes. A minimum of a 40-gallon breeder reptile tank is what we recommend for sub-adult age and older bearded dragons. Preferably a 40 or 50 gallon reptile tank is ideal to meet the basic needs for housing your dragon. A 20-gallon long reptile tank is fine for use on young juveniles growing up until they need to move into a larger tank which is usually around the age of 4 months or 10" in length from nose to tail tip. We recommend that reptile specific terrarium enclosures be used as opposed to fish aquarium tanks. Reptile specific enclosures have more actual floor space for the bearded dragon in comparison to the same size tank in an aquarium, which is usually taller and narrower. Bearded Dragons need floor space for movement. A narrow fish aquarium would be the equivilant of a dragon having to live in a long narrow hallway which is not suitable. Your dragon must be able to move about freely and turn around in his tank freely.

If you go to our links page on our website we have several cage companies that produce several different cage styles and you can go to those sites to see the options that you have in caging. We recommend www.customcages.com and www.glasscages.com. On both of these sites next to the cages that we recommend is a comment stating that this cage design is recommended by Georgia Bearded Dragons.. We recommend the cages that have glass sliding front doors for easy access to your dragons and less likely to damage your lighting and heating appliances that are sitting on top of the cage screening..GlassCages.com attends many of the Reptile Expos and you can purchase your caging from them at the Expos.

Be sure that your enclosure has a screen top on it so that the bearded dragons, other pets or children can not easily nudge it open. Your lighting and heat sources will need to sit on top of your tank sreen unless the enclosure has the lighting and heating fixtures located on the inside of the enclsoure.. A top on the cage is A MUST! If using a “hood style” lighting/heating source be sure it properly fits your tank and that the lighting fixture allows the basking bulbs to point downward for proper basking . Some keepers build homemade enclosures using wood, melamine, glass or Plexiglas with a hardware cloth or screen top. This is fine. Just be sure to check out our webpage titled SUBSTRATE to determine which is the best way to provide your dragon the proper substrate for the cage you are using.

It is nice to have the ability to take your dragons outdoors for natural sun. Have a secure sunning enclosure on warm days. Just remember that a glass or plastic enclosure will magnify the heat from the sun. So NEVER take your bearded dragon in a glass or clear plastic enclosure and place them in the sun. This would cook your dragon to death. Be careful about placing your dragon's enclosure indoors in front of a window that gets direct sunlight for these same reasons. There are commercial type portable screened enclosures on the market that are suitable for travel or temporary outdoor sunning available at your local pet store, at the reptile expos or from on-lines reptile suppliers.. One type is called a Reptarium that is mainly used for housing cameleons but is a good cage for outdoor sunning. Varous sizes are available in the predesigned cages or you can buld your own.

For an outdoor enclosure it is necessary to build a frame and then use a screening or hardware cloth or build an enclosure using a small gauge wire mesh to provide proper ventilation. Do not forget you still need to provide water and some shade so that your bearded dragon can get out of the sun should he/she get overheated. Also, never leave your bearded dragon sitting on a concrete surface. If you decide to do an outdoor enclosure be sure to keep it off surfaces that would absorb heat thereby cooking your dragon. We also recommend that you keep them off the ground by providing a barrier between them and the bedding of flower gardens, grass, etc. This will help to prevent them from picking up parasites, being attacked by fire ants, or bitten by other insects and from eating insects that have been exposed to pesticides that are harmful to your dragon.

Remember, outdoor enclosures are only for use on special occasion days when the weather is appropriate because bearded dragons are not native to our region and can not withstand the extreme temperature differences between day and night in certain areas of the country. Outdoor basking is appropriate only on warm sunny days.

SUBSTRATE MATERIAL (CAGE BEDDING and DECOR)

Please see our newest page on our website specifically written to address the various substrate options that you have and the different pros and cons of each. Substrate types is a serious issue and substrate must be decided upon by weighing these pros and cons that there is currently much debate about in our industry. You can select the cage substrate that best suits your needs and desires.

This is a highly debated topic among breeders, retail suppliers and manufacturers. Many of the substrates on the market, although they say they do not cause digestive problems, can cause digestive complications including constipation or impaction or even death when ingested.

Georgia Bearded Dragons™ recommends Zoo-Med brand Repti-Sand, an all natural substrate with no additives, no dyes and is ultra-fine for easy sifting when cleaning. We highly recommend this product based on our own experience in using it. ExoTerra also makes a sand like the Zoo-Med Repti Sand that is a very fine grained sand and would also be suitable.

We do not use sand substrates on our hatchlings or young juveniles but instead use paper towels and "print-free" newspaper until they are 5-6 months old or 10" - 12" in length from nose to tail tip. We do not recommend putting hatchlings or very young juveniles on sand substrates because they are aggressive eaters and can ingest the sand causing digestive problems and impaction, which can lead to serious illness or death. An impaction can occur more easily in the fragile delicate digestive system of younger dragons. Once they reach the age of 5-6 months or 10" - 12" in length they are switched over to a fine sand substrate or they can remain on "print-free" newspaper. We also recommend when using sand substrates that you use a mixture of Zoo-Med Repti-Sand "Desert Red" color with the Zoo-Med Repti-Sand "White" sand. The "Desert Red" sand alone can be a little more dusty when sifting than the white. Mixing the two together will give good color contrast between the substrate and the crickets at feeding time (which will appear white once they have been dusted with calcium). Some sand substrates on the market are calcium or vitamin fortified. We DO NOT recommend using any type of sand substrate that has additives including sands called calci-sands or vota-sands. It is difficult to monitor the calcium intake of your bearded dragon if they are on a substrate that has additives not to mention your dragon should be getting all calcium, vitamins and minerals from food sources and NOT from a substrate matter. Eating the substrate matter can be harmful to your pet. Dragons should not be eating their substrate.

Once your dragon is a young adult (around the age of one year) you can begin using the cheaper white non-silica based play sand. If using playsand be sure it is screened very carefully first to get out all of the tiny rocks and other particles that may be ingested by your bearded dragon. We recommend that you continue to mix it with the Zoo-Med "Desert Red". The grains of sand in "playsand" are typically larger than the grains of the ultra-fine "designer reptile sands" and we feel it is best not to use the larger grained sand on the more delicate digestive systems of young dragons. By mixing the finer grained "designer reptile sand" you will still have the added benefit of the good "clumping" factor of the finer sand when it becomes soiled by fecal matter. This also makes cleaning the cage easier.

For cleaning the cage and sifting through the sand substrate we use a small to medium size tropical fish net which you can purchase in the aquarium section.This works wonderful for getting out fecal matter, small food particles, skin sheds, left over insect parts and leaves a smooth, fresh, and clean substrate. You can also use a fine slotted kitchen spoon purchased from a large retail store like WalMart or from a dollar store. Just try to select one with the smallest holes or slots in to accomplish the best cleaning.

We recommend you DO NOT use substrates consisting of ground walnut shells, ground peanut shells, ground coconut pulp, wood shavings, cypress mulch or others sold. as lizard litters as digestive impaction can occur with these substrates as well. We also do not recommend using alfalfa rabbit pellets as bedding. Alfalfa pellets can grow a mold or fungus when wet from spilled water or fecal matter and this can become a health hazard by harboring disease, parasites or other health related illnesses..

CLEANING AND DISINFECTION

It is VERY important to keep the enclosure clean at all times to prevent diseases, parasite problems and to maintain the health of your bearded dragon.

If you use household cleaners on your bearded dragon enclosure or items being placed in the enclosure be sure your dragon is not in the tank and you follow up with a hot water soapy solution to wash out the chemicals of the cleaners.. Some of these chemicals can produce toxic fumes and need to be aired out and cleaned out before reintroducing your dragon. Georgia Bearded Dragons™ uses a mixture of water and white vinegar (one part vinegar to six parts water) mixed in a spray bottle. This is an all natural cleaner that is harmless to your dragon. Take the dragon out of the cage before cleaning. Clean enclosure, wipe dry and make sure there is not a strong smell before placing your bearded dragon back into its enclosure. All food and water bowls should be cleaned daily with hot soapy water, rinsed well, and dried before introducing new food .Another good safe cleaner for your cage is made by Healthy Habitate and does not contain any chemicals that are dangerious to your dragon. This is an easy to use product as we use it as well.

Basking sites, hammocks, logs, etc. should be cleaned regularly with very hot soapy water and followed by a strong vinegar solution. Scrub and clean regularly to remove fecal matter, insect matter and left over food that may have accumulated. A toothbrush, in addition to hot soapy water and the vinegar/water solution makes for a great method of scrubbing and cleaning and is a simple and easy method to keep your beardie happy and healthy.

We can not stress enough how important it is to do regular cleaning and maintenance of the habitat. Establishing a routine and taking only a few minutes a day and then a more in-depth weekly cleaning will be worth it in the long run for the health and life of your bearded dragon.

LONGEVITY

A well cared for dragon can live anywhere from 8-10 years or possibly even longer. The early years of a dragon’s life are the most important. A young dragon must be properly cared for to prevent it from having life long lasting problems. Proper exposure to UVA, UVB, heat basking temperatures of 105 - 106 degrees is ideal along with proper vitamins, minerals, and calcium, as well as a balanced diet rich in dark leafy greens, fresh vegetables and a little bit of fruits will help it to live a long healthy life and provide you with years of companionship.

LIGHTING, HEATING AND BASKING SITES

Bearded dragons like it HOT. The key to providing your bearded dragon with the proper enclosure/habitat is to give them a "hot basking zone" and yet still provide them with the ability to move to a cooler, lower temperature zone. Basking temperatures should reach between 105° - 106 degrees for your dragon to remain healthy, alert and digest food properly while the "cooler zone" of the enclosure should be around 80-85°. The 105 - 106 degree temperature should be about half way to two thirds the way up from the floor on the basking end of the tank. It is alright for the temperatures to be higher than this further up the basking site closer to the heat source.

Provide your bearded dragon with the ability to climb up towards the light/heat source since they like to perch on higher spots when they bask. This can be done in the form of an commercially purchased artificial tree branch placed at an angle in the enclosure. You can also place a flat piece of cork bark at an angled position from the bottom of the cage to the top of the cage to create a ramp for your dragon to climb. Large peices of drift wood are also ideal. Your dragon should be able to get within 8-10 inches of the basking light/heat source that provides essential UVA and UVB. Don't forget the basking temperature at this site should be between 105 - 106 degrees. We have several photos on our website Photo Gallery webpage that will show examples of caging setups. (See recommended cage furniture below). While basking under the heat light or sun your dragon may “vent” (open mouth breathing). This is a thermo-regulation process and is normal and not necessarily a sign of distress. Be sure that your dragon can move into a cool zone should he or she become too hot.

The ability to thermo-regulate and move to a cooler spot is essential. Nighttime heating is unnecessary unless temperatures drop below 70 degrees where they are being kept. Do not guess about temperatures. Keep a thermometer by your cage to monitor cage temperatures. A digital thermometer that registers indoor/outdoor temperatures and utilizes an external probe that can be moved around in the cage is best. This is to monitor basking sites and other temperature zones within the habitat. These are available at retail stores such as WalMart, Home Depot, and Lowes. You can also purchase them from on-line Internet reptile suppliers. We have found that the analog dial thermometers that are stuck to the side of the cage wall are not accurate and should not be relied upon as they only register the temperature of the location that the digital thermomter is placed or stuck on the wall of the tank.

As far as bearded dragons are concerned the brighter the light the better. Your bearded dragon will thrive best under good full spectrum UVA / UVB light source. We use and recommend the TRex Active UVHeat Mercury Vapor bulbs Or Mega Ray Mercury Vapor Bulbs that will provide your dragon with both a light and heat source as this is an all iin one bulb. The TRex brand Active UV Heat Mercury Vapor Bulb contains some of the highest amount of UVA and UVB of many bulbs. These bulbs are mercury vapor bulb, which contains a self-ballast unit and should only need replacing about 12 months - per the manufacturer's instructions. We, however, recommend replacing the bulb every 9-10 months as the UVB output diminishes over the life span of the bulb. These bulbs offer a good degree of UVA and UVB In order to produce and provide a higher UVB output for desert dwelling reptiles many of the traditional tube style bulbs have recently been improved by manufacturers. These bulbs are generally marketed for “desert dwelling” reptiles and will be labeled as such. Several of these higher UVB producing tube style bulbs will be mentioned later on in this care manual. TRex Active UV Heat mercury vapor bulbs are available through several on-line reptile supply houses at a cheaper price than most retail pet stores. See our website "Links" webpage a listing of a good Internet reptile supply company called Big Apple Herp where we also offer the ability for you to purchase your inital purchase at a 10% discount.

Because of the high intensity of these bulbs and the heat emitted we strongly urge you to use a ceramic-based dome light fixture and a surge protector. This will ensure the best protection of your investment of your lighting and heating sources. You will need to be sure that the ceramic base light fixture you purchase as a housing for your bulb is deep enough to accept the TRex Active UV Heat flood style bulbs. These bulbs are the size of a household floodlight and require a 10" "deep well" dome fixture. You do not want the bulb to extend beyond the housing of the light fixture as this is unsafe and your light fixture will not sit flat on the screening surface of your cage. A standard 8 1/2" dome will not hold these bulbs.

When using a TRex Active UVHeat mercury vapor bulb we recommend using the 100-Watt Flood bulb to reach the appropriate basking temperatures unless you have an unusually large tank which will take a larger wattage bulb. The 100-waltt bulb should not be used on an enclosure any smaller than a Reptile 20-gallon long size glass tank. Please refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations at the time of purchase. When purchasing from a retailer be sure the specific brand and wattage bulb you are considering will be appropriate for your size enclosure.Always test your cage temperatures at several different locations in the cage for optimum basking temperatures.

The colors and health of your dragon depend on cage changes like relocating a cage, shipping, stress and by offering good heat, bright light, and UVA and UVB exposure. Your dragon will also benefit from exposure to natural sunlight on occasion. Younger dragons may become stressed if taken outdoors due to the unfamiliar surrounding and fear of becoming prey. We do not recommend taking any bearded dragon outside that has not become acustomed to being handled or that has been known to get away from it’s owner and may become difficult to capture.

We DO NOT recommend using commercially made heat rocks for bearded dragons. These commercially available supplies seem like a nice item to decorate a cage and offer your dragon. However, some have been known to cause severe burns if the unit malfunctions or overheats. If supplemental heating is needed for the bottom of your enclosure we recommend using an under the tank heater that can warm your sand substrate or a river rock that absorbs the heat from the basking bulb. Beard Dragons love to lay on the warm sand and the extra warmth they feel on their bellies is wonderful for aiding the digestive process, same for a nice warmed up river rock. Follow the manufacturer recommendations for installing the under the tank heater. Another ideal cage addition for providing a warming area on the bottom of the cage is a flat river rock. These rocks absorb heat weill and your dragon will enjoy laying on it while basking. Be sure to place the river rock on the "hot zone" of the enclosure.

If using fluorescent bulbs be sure you use the bulb type specifically designed for "desert dwelling" reptiles. This is very important! The bulbs designed for "desert dwelling" reptiles emit a higher amount of UVB than other fluorescent bulbs that are designed for other various species of reptiles. Several that we can recommend are: (in the tube style) - the Repti-Glo 10.0 made by ExoTerra and the Repti-Sun 10.0 made by ZooMed. These tube style bulbs are available in several different lengths to accommodate different cage and hood sizes.

A new style of fluorescent bulb now available is a compact fluoresent spiral type of bulb that screws in to a standard light socket fixture or dome. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND USING THESE BULBS. Until there is more research done on these bulbs please do not use them. There have been customer complaints that their dragons will bask with their eyes closed under these bulbs. This is leading many in the industry to believe there is the potential for eye damage to your dragon because these bulbs put out a very concentrated amount of UVB at the site they are placed and can possibly cause eye damage to your dragon. The eyes of your dragons can develop retinal burns from over exposure to intense UVB that will irritate your dragon to the point that he can not open his eyes or feed. This is based on personal experience.

You must provide your dragon with a basking bulb placed directly over the basking site with the appropriate wattage for your enclosure in ofer to reach the proper basking temperatures of 105 -106 degrees.. A basking bulb only provides UVA and heat. A regular basking bulb does not provide UVB unless you are using the previously mentioned "mercury vapor" all-in one type bulb. The fluorescent bulbs do not emit the required and much needed heat to meet your bearded dragon's needs. We recommend and use a 100-watt basking bulb for a 20-gallon long enclosures and a 100-watt to 150-watt basking bulb for 40-gallon and 50-gallon enclosures or larger depending on the temperature of the individual set-up and it's location. Usually a 100-watt basking bulb is sufficient for a 40-gallon enclosure. You will need to make sure that both the basking bulb and the fluorescent bulb are located directly over the top of your dragon's basking site for optimum efficiency. Basking bulbs will only need to be replaced when they burn out. Your fluoresent bulb should be replaced every six months as the UVB output of these "tube style" bulbs will diminish over the life of the bulb even thought the bulb will continue to light up it will become inefficient.

It is also important to note that if you are using a "hood-style" light/heat fixture that the basking bulb sockets points downward and projects light/heat directly onto the basking site and is not pointing sideways. Many of the hoods available are designed with the sockets for the bulbs pointing sideways. This will not provide a basking site for your dragon as the beam will not be projected correctly downward.

One hood that we can recommend is made by ZooMed and is called a "Slider Hood - The King of All Reptile Hoods". This hood comes in sizes from 24" to 72" in length. This particular hood has porcelain sockets rated up to 150-watts each for basking bulbs, heat bulbs or night-lighting as well as fluorescent tube-style bulbs. This item may need to be special ordered if your store does not carry it. We recommend checking with on-line reptile supply retailers for availability for your best pricing available.

If your bearded dragon is not getting the correct amount of heating and lighting there can be health and behavior concerns. Too little heating or lighting can cause your dragon to not eat and just lay around and become inactive. This can result illness or even death if not corrected. Too much heat at the basking site can cause your dragon to overheat or not use the basking site as needed and this can cause health concerns as well if your dragon is staying on the cool end of the tank most of the time and not getting the proper UVB exposure..

ENCLOSURE / HABITAT FURNITURE

We find that cork bark and drift wood works for this as it is easy to remove for cleaning and scrubbing. Just be sure it is secured and can not slip and crush your dragon. The drift wood will also need to be cleaned and scrubbing.

When selecting your cork bark pieces (local pet shop retailers or on-line retailers) we recommend that you purchase the flat pieces as opposed to the whole limb style round pieces. The hollow styled whole limb pieces allow for feeder crickets to climb in and hide from your dragons. Once hidden, the crickets will come out at night after your dragon has gone to sleep and nibble on your dragon as well as the food that may be left in the cage. When using flat cork bark pieces it is more likely your dragon will be successful in eating all feeder crickets placed in the enclosures. Drift wood will usually not present any of these problems. River rocks purchased at a landscaping business are also ideal ways to elevate your dragon from the floor of the cage for basking and to keep cricekts from hiding during feeding time.

Bearded Dragons also like to have somewhere to hide, go to for security, or take a nap either in the afternoon or evenings. This can be of any design but keep in mind the safety of your bearded dragon and the ease of being able to keep it clean and disinfected. We have found that the commercially available half round hollow logs work well for hiding places or newly designed resin large hides which are easier to clean and disinfect than wood. They also fit in nicely with the natural look of a river rock, cork bark or drift wood as well as the natural looking backgrounds you can purchase to decorate the exterior of your enclosure. You can see several photos giving examples of different cage set-ups on our website "Photo Gallery".

There are many nice products that are made of synthetic materials that make cleaning easy. Be sure to select something that will not fall over on your dragons and crush them if they try to burrow beneath the object. Look for lightweight yet durable products as well as products than can be secured in place for the safety of your dragon. We also recommend ZooMeds Repti-Hammocks for bearded dragons. Not only do the dragons love the hammocks but you will get lots of enjoyment out of watching them jumping from their basking sites into their hammocks or just lounging in the hammock. (See photos on our website photo gallery webpage.)

BEARDED DRAGON BEHAVIOR

Bearded Dragons are generally not aggressive towards people and are fast becoming one of the top choices of families as a favorite pet because of their unique personality characteristics and gentleness. However they can be aggressive towards other bearded dragons as well as many other species of lizards. It’s likely that injuries may occur to other dragons, therefore we do not recommend putting bearded dragons of varying sizes together in a single enclosure. When housing more than one bearded dragon of the same size together, a larger enclosure may be needed so both dragons have adequate space to thrive. We recommend a minimum of a 50 gallon reptile tank for housing a pair of dragons. A larger enclsoure is also ideal for a pair of dragons.

Young bearded dragons can be kept in small groups without too many problems as long as one is not dominating others to the degree problems exist with the others getting adequate food supplies. As they begin to mature the males and the females must be separated to prevent breeding.

Males can become sexually active as early as 9-10 months of age so they need to be kept separate from females until you intend to breed them. Females can also reach reproductive age early, although they should not be used as breeding females until they reach the age of approx. 16 - 18 months in order to avoid complications related to egg carrying and egg laying. It is best to allow the female to reach maturity before breeding so her health and growth are not compromised.

You will notice social behavior characteristics between multiple bearded dragons. When keeping a single dragon you may at times notice your bearded dragon exhibit this behavior. Males characteristically head bob at other dragons and darken their beards in a mating ritual, while females will arm wave. Do not base any sex determinations of your dragon on these outward characteristics, as both sexes have been known to exhibit similar behavior as juveniles and sub-adults. Some females can also show signs of a slightly darkened bead when they become excited or stressed for any number of reasons.

COLORATION OF YOUR DRAGON

Many things influence the coloration of a bearded dragon including genes from the family bloodlines, stress, time of day, light exposure, temperature, diet, excitability, mating rituals, if they are at rest or sleeping, or basking in their lights or the sun. Dragons exposed to natural sunlight and natural UVA and UVB rays tend to “tan” just like humans do which can bring out the natural pigmentation of their skin which in turn goes back to their bloodlines and breeding histories.

There are many variations in color and patterns that breeders are working with through the various bloodlines of bearded dragons. If you are interested in learning more about these, a good resource is “The Bearded Dragon Manual” mentioned earlier in this care sheet or speaking with a professional breeder personally. This book is a good introduction into the varieties of coloration and patterns available in bearded dragons. Keep in mind that the pictures of brightly colored oranges, reds, white and yellow bearded dragons begin to get into very specialized color morph groups that are more expensive and can be highly priced reptiles. These can typically range anywhere from $200 - $400 and up. This is just to give you an idea of the cost and value of these higher end color morphs should you begin to fancy your new interest in beautiful and colorful bearded dragons and think of starting up a new hobby. It can get very expensive when you want to own the higher end color morphs that are available from established and experienced breeders with top quality breeding stock.

FEEDING & WATERING

Bearded Dragons are omnivors and should feed on both vegetation and protein. Crickets, Phoenix Worms, superworms, waxworms, silkworms, hornworms, butter worms, special species of roaches bred for reptiles and a variable mixture of fresh dark leafy greens, vegetables and a little bit of fruit are some of the staple food sources. Pinkie mice are a good source of calcium, fat and protein for your dragons and can be offered as a treat once a week. They are also a great source of additional nutrition for breeding and egg laying female dragons. Feeding pinkie mice is an option and not a requirement, more of a personal choice. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND USING MEALWORMS AT ALL. These worms are a hard shelled worm and have little gut factor to them. These worms are very difficult to digest and your dragon can easily become impacted or choked on them if trying to regurgitate them. This can cause death in your bearded dragon.

Never feed your dragon too large a prey item. Crickets should be no larger than the distance between the space that is between their eyes on the top of their head. Using the distance between your dragon’s eyes is the best judge in selecting proper cricket sizes for your dragon. You can look at cricket sizes on our cricket supplier's website as they show approximately 8 different sizes of crickets. Just go to www.ghann.com and go to the page labled crickets.

We do not feed hatchling or juvenile bearded dragons superworms until they are approximately 5-6 months old or 12" in length and are large enough to digest the hard outer shell of superworms and to lessen the chance of a bowel impaction occurring. Never over feed your dragon as their digestive system is very sensitive. Bearded dragons love worms and can very easily overeat if you give them to many. They have been known to eat as many as you will give them so be sure to limit these to snacks or feeding supplements. .If too many crickets or hard shelled worms are fed your dragon can regurgitate and chock to death on these feeders because of being over fed and the difficulty of reguritating the hard outer shells. Be careful because they can easily become sick, overstuffed and unable to digest everything they have eaten. That is why we recommend only feeding a small amount at one time to sub-adults over 10-12 inches in length or several months of age and once they become adults they can eat approximately 4-6 superworms at one time.

Bearded Dragons require a variety of greens high in calcium such as collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, parsley and dandelion greens. They also love the herb cilantro, which can be added to their dark leafy greens. Small amounts of kale and spinach greens can be fed a few times each month but not as often as the other greens mentioned. Kale and spinach are high in phosphorous and too much phosphorous in their system can inhibit the absorption of calcium into the bloodstream causing hypocalcemia also known as Metabolic Bone Disorder or MBD which is a dangerous drop in the blood calcium levels. Stay away from iceberg lettuce, cabbage and standard “human” type salad lettuces, as they are generally low in nutrition or food value and can cause episodes of diarrhea and calcium deficency.

We also recommend feeding a variety of fresh vegetables such as finely shredded carrots, shredded yellow squash, shredded sweet potato, shredded zucchini, small tender green peas, diced up green beans and fruits such as diced up strawberries, cut up peaches, mango, pineapple, banana, raspberries, blueberries, grapes, kiwi or melon. There is a wide range of vegetables and fruits that can be included in the diet of your dragon. (We recommend reading other reference books or Internet sites specifically about bearded dragon diets for other suggested vegetables that have been used by others.) Bearded dragons also love flowers such as dandelion flowers, hibiscus flowers, and small dianthus or carnations. Offering a variety of greens, veggies and fruits mixed together in a salad form will keep your bearded dragon happy and healthy; ensuring that he/she is getting the proper dietary requirements.

To provide protein to your bearded dragon's diet silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, waxworms, Phoenix Worms, superworms and special species of feeder roaches can be obtained from different sources on-line. You can check out www.greatlakeshormworm,com , www.mulberryfarms.com and www.GeorgiaBugs.com for options of these feeders. Many cricket farms will carry the superworms available for purchase.

We strongly recommend that you NEVER NEVER feed your bearded dragon wild caught bugs no matter what species the bug may be. Certain bugs may have been exposed to pesticides from neighboring areas and can poison your bearded dragon. Some bugs are poisonous to bearded dragons such as the case with fireflies .FIREFLIES ARE DEADLY AND IT ONLY TAKES ONE TO KILL A BEARDED DRAGON.

To water your juvenile bearded dragon, you can mist them lightly with fresh water using a sprayer. Bearded dragons will drink the water bead droplets that roll off the tip of their noses. Bearded Dragons come from an environment that is dry and arid lacking in humidity so their bodies are built to conserve water. Bearded dragons can be trained to drink from a water dish but we have found that this seems to be more trouble than it’s worth because of the mess it makes in the cage when they overturn the water dish or defecate in the water dish. Hatchlings and very young juveniles seem to enjoy getting “rained on” and drinking the droplets. You can also take your dragon out of the enclosure and offer him/her water droplets right off the end of the spray nozzle. We find that this works best for larger juveniles that no longer like being misted.. We have also found that if you are offering moisture-rich vegetables such as grated yellow squash or grated zucchini DAILY your dragon will be well hydrated and not need water supplementation daily. Soaking your dragon twice weekly in a warm shallow bath will also provide your dragon with a chance to drink water. Soaking your dragon also hydrates their skin and aids in the shedding process. A dragon will shed as it goes through the growth process and this can become slightly irritating for your dragon. Soaking your dragon will make him or her more comfortable and assist in the shedding process. Don't be surprised if your dragon has a bowel movement while soaking in warm water. This stimuates the bowels and is a healthy thing to occur, especially if you have a constipated dragon. Just open the drain and direct the dirty water down the drain and draw a fresh bath.

Some breeders and owners feed commercially produced pelleted foods to their bearded dragons. As professional breeders we do not believe these pelleted foods provide or meet the dietary requirements of bearded dragons. Many of these products are made up of a variety of grain products, which are fillers, and not a part of a bearded dragon's diet.

Parasites can be passed from not just the live prey, but also from the vegetable matter, from other bearded dragons or from outdoor ground exposure. We recommend that you wash all greens, fruits and vegetables very well before feeding them to your bearded dragon. For this reason we also recommend you have a fecal test done twice a year just to ensure the health of your animal and for a “well-check” visit to the vet. It is not uncommon for bearded dragons to have parasites in their system, as this is a part of nature. When a dragon becomes stressed or sick these parasite levels can spike to unhealthy levels and the dragon will then require treatment. Treatment for parasites is relatively easy and very effective if you catch it BEFORE your dragon shows signs of having a serious parasite problem.

We recommend feeding hatchling and juvenile dragons an abundant morning salad containing fresh greens and vegetables, in addition to receiving crickets very lightly 5-6 appropriately sized with the breakfast meal. Our hatchlings are feed crickets three times a day. Cricket feeding is reduced to twice a day for juvenile’s 6 weeks and older. Early Sub-Adult and Sub-adult and adult dragons receive crickets only once a day in the evening approximately 10-12 each and some adults only every other day depending on the individual dragon’s eating habits. Various worms are also fed daily in the evening feeding. As dragons get older their appetites begin to decrease. Be careful not to over feed your dragon on crickets or worms at any one feeding. It is better to feed smaller more frequent meals using worms as snacks rather than to feed too much at one time. Also, be sure to feed your dragons at least two hours prior to turning off their lights off for the night, as they need the UVA, UVB, light and heat to aid in digestion.

SUPPLEMENTATION: VITAMINS AND MINERALS

Bearded Dragons require a proper intake and absorption of calcium and vitamin D3. Too much or too little can be a problem for the health of your dragon. Noy enough caclium in their diet can cause Metabolic Bone Disorder. We recommend that you do a little bit of reading on the subject, ask your breeder and ask your veterinarian. Standard practice in the industry is to use phosphorous free calcium with vitamin D3 to dust your crickets and worms prior to feeding if you are housing your dragon indoors. If you are housing your dragon outdoors constantly you will use the calcium without the vitamin D3 as they get this naturally from the sun. The reason you want to use phosphorous free is because too much phosphorous can cause the calcium to bind and not be successfully absorbed into the bloodstream and system of your bearded dragon. We also recommend using a good multi-vitamin supplement, 3-4 times a week. Calcium and vitamin deficiencies can lead to serious health problems in your bearded dragon. Too little calcium and vitamin D3 can lead to a serious bone disorder called Metabolic Bone Disorder (MBD) or hypocalcemia. Some early symptoms of this problem include shaking, twitching, or stiffness of limbs (especially rear legs and toes), and difficulty chewing food and having spasms or seizures.. If this problem is caught early, medication, supplementation and exposure to the right UVA and UVB lighting conditions can be excellent remedies and restore the health of your bearded dragon. Problems can also develop by over-supplementation so be sure to use caution when using your vitamin supplements. If your dragon experiences MBD it is urgent that you get your dragon to a reptile specialist vet that can give your dragon the proper dosing of a calcium injection to expedite the introduction of calcium into the bloodstream.

PARASITES

There are numerous parasites that can become a problem for bearded dragons. Many dragons live with these parasites without problems, but if they develop in the system in large numbers, problems can occur. Problems often are triggered by stress such as being moved to another enclosure, contact with another dragon or another annoying animal in the home, breeding, hibernation or illness.

Parasites often come from unclean cages, a variety of food sources including feeder insects, feces from other dragons, feces from crickets and even the greens, fruits and vegetables you purchase from the store. Wash all produce well before feeding it to your dragons.

We encourage extreme care in keeping all areas clean and free of fecal build up and clean all old food and dead feeder crickets from the enclosures daily.

We encourage owners to have a “well animal” vet check twice a year. Regular "well-check" visits to the vet over the life of your dragon will increase the longevity of your new pet.

If during the course of the year you suspect your bearded dragon may have a parasitic infestation you may in many cases be able to take a fecal or stool sample to your vet without having to take the animal in for a visit. If the fecal sample tests positive then you can discuss the necessary care and requirements with your vet in order to diagnose the case properly. Some laws require a vet see the animal in the office before dispensing a prescription medication. If you discover you have an animal with a positive fecal then the vet may request you bring your bearded dragon in so that he/she can be examined and weighed so that proper dosages of medication can be determined before the prescription is written or dispensed. We recommend requesting your vet to do both a fecal float parasite test as well as the standard slide test for detecting parasites.

We encourage you to do everything to keep your bearded dragon free of parasites, as this is relatively simple and inexpensive. Symptoms of parasites include consistently runny and smelly stool (more foul smelling than normal), an inability to gain weight, loss of appetite, or loss of weight. If you see these signs treatment should be sought. The treatment is relatively easy. There is a high probability that you will encounter parasites because of the high occurrence in bearded dragons and reptiles in general. For information on preventative care we recommend going to www.parazap.com that offers a natural preventative maintenance treatment through the use of natural herbal ingredients. We believe that a little preventative maintenance goes a long way towards the fight of a parasite infestation or overload. The Parazap website mentions administering the product in a tea form. Since bearded dragons rarely drink from a bowl we use the product in very small amounts as a dust on our crickets just like when using the calcium and multivitamin. Just combine a little bit of Parazap with your calcium when dusting your crickets.

We use Parazap regularly in our feeding and supplementation routine for all of our bearded dragons as a preventative maintenance program. We highly recommend the product for its natural effects and added benefits of increased appetite thereby increasing the vigor, stamina and growth of our dragons. See other pages on our website regarding ParaZap and how we use this product. We have it listed on our homepage and our links page.

SANITARY CARE / HAND WASHING

We recommend that anytime you allow anyone to handle your bearded dragon you exercise extreme care with hygiene. Germs can be passed from human contact to your bearded dragon and vice versa. It is essential to practice good hand washing and hygiene/sanitary care when handling your bearded dragons. Especially around children and food preparation areas and when handling food after you have handled your bearded dragon.

Commercially prepared alcohol based hand sanitizer products are available for people who keep reptiles and are excellent for use before and after handling reptiles. We highly recommend you keep these disinfectant hand gels on hand throughout your home for anyone that handles your bearded dragons. These may be purchased anywhere.This is not just to protect your bearded dragon from getting germs, but also to keep from passing germs to other dragons and people that come into contact with your bearded dragon.

BRUMATION PERIOD

This is a natural occurring hibernation period considered necessary for a dragon to sexually mature and to induce breeding activity. Think of it as Mother Nature’s “Time Out”. Many bearded dragons will slow down their eating and activity during the winter months even without initiating any lighting or heating condition changes. One sign of your dragon wanting to brumate is it will stay on the cooler side of the tank, bask less, appear sleep, not eat much and stay in it's hide. You may winterize your dragons for approx. one to two months however some dragons will brumate on their own for as long as 3-4 months during their brumation cycle.

We suggest following the natural winter light cycle with a reduction of daylight hours by one to two hour each week over the winter months until you reach 8 hours of light per day which helps ease your dragon into the natural brumation period. A temperature drop should also occur gradually until the day temperature of the enclosure is between 75° and 80° F in the cool zone and night temperature may drop below 75° but not lower than 70° F. Before putting a dragon “down for winter brumation” be sure that your dragon is healthy, free of undigested food and has had a fresh bowel movement. It is also ideal to get your well check visit from your vet and a good worming routine done before putting a dragon into brumation. You can encourage your dragon to have a bowel movement by soaking him/her for approximately 10-15 minutes in gently mild warm water. In addition to having your dragon in a cooler tank we also cover the tank with a dark blue or black sheet for privacy and so that your dragon is not disturbed. Do not handle your dragon during brumation unless it is completely necessary.

If you notice your dragon getting up and about during the brumation cycle, small amounts of food can be offered. If your dragon does eat during the brumation cycle be sure to soak him or her again in a day or two to stimulate a bowel movement so the food does not sit and ferment in the stomach of your dragon while your dragon is brumating to prevent a parasite buildup. Provide your dragon with a den type area in which they can “retreat” for privacy to sleep during their brumation cycle. An upside down shoe box with a entrance cut out in it is ideal. Some will want to dig or burrow down. The best environment for a dragon in brumation is a cool, quiet, dark place. You can provide this simply by using a dark sheet loosely draped over the cage.

A heavy brumation period may not be necessary for many bearded dragons. When the winter period is over, slowly raise the temperature levels to the previously suggested highs and increase the photo-period (lighting level) until the light cycle is up to 12-14 hours per day.

Last Edited 11/4/08